AnneMarie and Andrew

Annemarie and Andrew – Trekking Asia

Annapurna Circuit: Day 3 – Chamje to Danaque

Altitude: 1,410m
Climb: 800m
Time: 5hr 15m + 1hr 30m breaks
Daily Cost: 3,630 rupees ($37/£22)

We left at 8:15am and walked down into the proper village of Chamje. Still deserted, a ghost town! After Chamje the path lead down to the right to a suspension bridge back over the river to the path on the other side. I can’t see why people would skip this section. The scenery was excellent and varied and most of the walking was not on the road but on the path on the opposite side of the river. Sure, there are times when you have to walk on the road, for an hour or so. But, you still spend more time on the path than the road. It would appear, judging by the deserted villages we’ve seen so far that most people disagree with me though and would rather skip the first few days and start further up the trail.

The valley was deep here and the path was passed under and around some huge boulders that had rolled down the side of the valley. One boulder was the size of a house! The path clung to the steep rock face as we made our way up the valley, but the road on the other side was more impressive as it looked like it had been blasted out of the rock face as it wound it’s way along the valley. This section had quite a few ups and downs, mainly steep steps up. Then we reached a tea house at the bottom of a steep section of the path. It was around time for our usual morning tea stop, but Annemarie insisted that Tal wasn’t far away and it would be better to stop there than here. Plus it’s better to stop and rest after a difficult section rather than before it. We followed her lead.



The slope was steep but not too bad. At the top we had a great view back down the valley we had just walked up. But no Tal, only a sign showing the walking times from Tal onwards.


We walked down the slope and a wide, flat valley came into view. The road was on the left of the valley and the path was on the right, leading to the village of Tal. Annemarie was obviously bored with pacing herself and walked off at a good speed, leaving me and Marco far behind. We followed her until she was little more than a pink dot. Tal was quite a large village and was pretty much empty, again. Annemarie picked a place for tea right at the end of the village, near a waterfall. The owner seemed nice and the garden in which we drank our tea was quite good.


After Tal we walked along the path enjoying the scenery. The hills were very green and the river, which was far below us was clear with lots of white water from the many rocks. We crossed back over into the road and from here we had to walk on the road for almost 2 hours. The road wasn’t too bad, it’s more of a wide dirt footpath than a road but the occasional Jeep did pass and produced large clouds of dust.


Around midday we reached a small shack beside the road which served food. We went in and sat down, but a few minutes later Harry caught up with us and said we should continue for another 5 minutes. The village was Karte and had far better restaurants than this shack. So we left and continued down the road. A long suspension bridge took us to Karte on the other side of the river. Here we saw the British couple again, so headed for a different restaurant. We ate in ‘New World’. Annemarie and Marco had a potato, bean and pumpkin curry, freshly cooked to order. The lunch break was a long stop as the curry took a while, but it was worth it. Annemarie later said it was the best food she had had on any of the treks.


After lunch the path continued on the opposite side to the road for a while and it was nice. The goats liked it too!



After a while the path crossed a suspension bridge and back onto the road and we walked along this road for the remainder of the day. The road wasn’t too bad or busy and the walk to Danaque was fine.

Danaque is a small village and as we walked along the road running through the village we saw a guest house named ‘Motherland’. Two Canadian guys were staying there to and we chatted with them a little. The good thing about this guest house was the nice, hot shower. The Canadians had already been in the shower and reported it was cold water, the thermometer showing 12°c. I’d seen this before on the base camp trek and realised it was because the gas was off. Another telltale sign was the constant clicking as the boiler tries to ignite. I flicked the gas regulator round and we both had lovely hot showers. However, food was not quite as good as the shower or the room. I ordered spaghetti and what came was a mass ball of overcooked spaghetti with a bit of tomato ketchup on it. Not nice at all! So I had chocolate pudding to make up for it.

Day 2PhotosDay 4

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